I visited New Orleans for the first time for 3 days over New Years 2023. I was expecting huge crowds partying in the streets, which we did see, but it had nothing to do with NYE and everything to do with football!
Our visit coincided with the 90th annual Sugar Bowl – the college football semifinal playoffs…. and wow! I have never seen anything like it! A huge street parade akin to what I would expect to see at Mardi Gras, was a highlight. What an experience!
The Sugar Bowl parade was a bonus, there was so much more that we saw and did in the 3 days we were there.
Where to Stay in New Orleans
We stayed in the French Quarter, which was a wonderful location, right in the middle of all the action and within walking distance to the major attractions.
I am not going to recommend where we stayed, however, only because of the noise. It was very centrally located and had a lovely balcony to people watch – which is what we thought would be fun to do on NYE. The building is quite charming and historic, but the problem with that is, the old fittings and lack of sound proofing. Not much sleep was had, as every conversation between passersby and tour operators was heard loud and clear. The rubbish truck emptying the industrial bins from the hotel across the street was pre-dawn, like clockwork, every morning.
So, unless noise doesn’t bother you, I wouldn’t recommend Sonder St. Helene, Chartres St., but here are some other accommodation options in the French Quarter.
Things to do in New Orleans
There’s so much to see and to do in New Orleans! Here are some things that I can recommend doing during a 3-day stay in New Orleans, to maximize your time.
Explore the French Quarter
The French Quarter is the oldest and most iconic neighbourhood in New Orleans. It is known for its Spanish and French colonial architecture. You’ll see gorgeous buildings with beautiful facades and intricate ironwork balconies. Hours can easily be spent just walking and admiring the beautiful buildings. More often than not, you’ll come across musicians playing awesome jazz on a street corner.
The historic landmark of Jackson Square is a magnet for artists and street vendors, so make sure you spend some time wandering around this space located opposite the iconic white towers and triple steeples of St Louis Cathedral, the oldest Catholic cathedral in the United States.
Visit the New Orleans Jazz Museum
Located in the historic old US Mint building in the French Quarter, is the New Orleans Jazz Museum. If you have an interest in Jazz, this museum is the place to explore the genre’s rich history. It boasts one of the most comprehensive jazz collections in the world and features instruments once played by jazz greats such as Louis Armstrong and Fats Domino.
Listen to some live Jazz music
Frenchman Street
New Orleans is said to be the birthplace of Jazz. You cannot visit New Orleans without listening to some live Jazz. For an authentic New Orleans jazz experience head to Frenchman Street. There are some iconic Jazz venues which we loved, and I recommend you visit.
Pat O’Brien’s
Established in 1933, just after the end of Prohibition, Pat O’Brien’s is one of New Orleans most famous and iconic bars. Credited with inventing the New Orleans signature rum-based cocktail, the Hurricane, it makes the perfect place to try one …. where it all began! The piano bar is famous for its dueling pianos, where musicians take requests from the patrons and perform crowd favourites, encouraging sing-a-longs and audience participation. So much fun!
The Spotted Cat
Located on Frenchman Street, The Spotted Cat is cozy and laid back, with a small and unpretentious interior. It is famous for its focus on traditional New Orleans jazz, along with swing, blues, funk and even some Latin music. Spotted Cat is a small venue and fills up quickly …. so, arrive early!
Not only does Frenchman Street have the iconic jazz clubs but you can hear fantastic jazz played by talented musicians out on the street itself, without even having to enter a club.
Preservation Hall
Located in the heart of the French Quarter, is the small, rustic, world-renowned live jazz venue of Preservation Hall. It is unpretentious, with worn wooden benches, exposed brick walls and dim lighting, keeping the attention solely on the music. The music performances are intimate, with no bar and no food ….. it is all about the music. Just like The Spotted Cat, Preservation Hall is small and fills up quickly.
The Market Cafe
For a little alfresco jazz, while enjoying a bite to eat, head to the Market Cafe. We had lunch there and were entertained with some great live jazz while we ate. Just beside the Market Cafe is the iconic golden statue of Joan of Arc, affectionately referred to as ‘Joanie on the pony’. The statue was a gift from the French, and honours the city’s connection to France.
Wander through the French Market
Located along Decatur Street, near the Mississippi River, is one of the oldest markets in the United States. Dating back to 1791, the historic open-air market, is a hub of activity in the French Quarter. It spans 6 blocks and is divided into sections that include a farmer’s market, a flea market and food stalls.
We loved wandering through the markets, sampling some local fare – we passed on the gator bites, but did try them on our swamp tour! I ended up purchasing a pair of New Years Eve earrings from a local artisan, perfect to wear that night to see in the New Year!
Ride the Historic New Orleans Streetcars
Originally powered by horses, the New Orleans Streetcars have been in operation since 1835! Riding in one is like stepping back in time, with their vintage wooden interiors, brass fittings and open windows.
We took the historic St Charles Streetcar line (the green and brown streetcars), from the French Quarter to explore the beautiful Garden District. Be aware that the Streetcars only accept cash or passes. Here is a link to the New Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA) for more information about riding the Streetcars.
Explore the Beautiful Garden District
Riding the St Charles line Streetcar gives you a wonderful view of historic New Orleans mansions as you travel down St Charles Avenue. Make sure you get off though and explore the area further on foot.
The Garden District in New Orleans is known for its opulent homes surrounded by lush gardens, which gives the district its name. The area features some of the best-preserved examples of 19th century Southern architecture. I took way too many photos, here are just a couple.
Besides the gorgeous houses, other highlights of the Garden District which you shouldn’t miss are:
Lafayette Cemetery
Unfortunately closed for maintenance on our visit, the Lafayette cemetery is an above-ground cemetery, famous for its atmospheric beauty. It has featured in many movies such as Interview with a Vampire and Dracula.
Commander’s Palace
Commander’s Palace is an iconic restaurant serving Creole cuisine and Jazz brunches. Named after Emile Commander who established it in 1893, it has won many culinary awards. Book well ahead to avoid disappointment. I just loved the bright turquoise blue and white facade, it’s hard to miss!
Magazine Street
The perfect place to rest for a while and grab a bite to eat. This lively street offers boutique shopping, art galleries, coffee shops and restaurants.
Visit The National World War II Museum
Also located on Magazine Street, not too far away in the Warehouse District, is the National WWII Museum. Only opened in 2000, this museum offers a comprehensive collection of exhibits and immersive experiences that covers the entire story of WWII. It includes not only a Boeing Centre, showcasing restored wartime aircraft, but artifacts and personal stories, including letters, photographs and first-hand accounts, to bring the human side of war into focus.
Do a Southern Plantation Tour
As a long time ‘Gone With the Wind’ fan, I was looking forward to this tour the most, and it didn’t disappoint. With a pick-up and drop-off in central New Orleans, the Plantation tour combined with a swamp tour, was a wonderful easy way to explore a little further afield and get a glimpse into Louisiana’s past and Southern culture.
All I knew of Southern Plantations, I learned from Gone With the Wind, so …. not much!
I soon discovered that, established in the 18th century, plantations thrived due to the fertile soil and agreeable climate. Built and maintained by slave labour, the plantations became a symbol of Southern wealth, with grand mansions lining the Mississippi river. After the Civil War, and the abolition of slave labour, many plantations declined. Some have been preserved as museums like the one we visited, stunning Oak Alley.
Our guide pointed out other grand mansions deserted and left to deteriorate. I wonder what they would sell for?? I haven’t given up my Scarlet O’Hara dreams just yet!
Do a Louisiana Swamp Tour
After our Plantation tour, we stopped for lunch at a local Cajun Cafe, B & C Seafood Market and Cajun restaurant. It was certainly interesting…. with everything croc related you can think of, hanging from the walls and ceiling. The food was not fancy, just fresh and local with a classic Cajun menu. This is where I tried my gator bites…. as they say, tastes like chicken! Also tried the crumbed catfish, a specialty there.
Onto the Swamp! We were there in winter, so the majority of alligators were hunkered down somewhere conserving energy. We did manage to see a juvenile gator though, lured to the surface by our airboat guide. Winter in the Bayou is all about the migratory birds. All sorts of ducks, waterfowl and hawks can be seen in the swamp in winter. The highlight for me was spotting a Bald Eagle!
Even if we hadn’t spotted any wildlife, the airboat ride was an iconic Louisiana activity that was a lot of fun to do. They issue you with headphones, which are very much needed. Those things are loud! Don’t wear your white linen either, you are bound to get a few mud splatters on your clothes, all part of the fun!
Eat Southern food and an Iconic New Orleans Beignet
New Orleans offers authentic Creole and Cajun cuisine, with staples like gumbo, jambalaya and beignets! I think it is obligatory to try all of them!
On our first night in New Orleans we discovered an Italian restaurant on Decatur Street, just near the French Market, called Frank’s restaurant. It has a relaxed atmosphere, super friendly staff, with a balcony upstairs, which we discovered was perfect for watching the Sugar Bowl Parade a few days later. Not only do they serve Italian dishes, but also traditional Creole and Cajun dishes and seafood. The traditional Muffuletta served here is apparently one of the best in the city.
Cafe Du Monde is a New Orlean’s institution. Located next to the French Market, the original Cafe Du Monde was a coffee stand established in 1862. It is renowned for its beignets, which are square French-style doughnuts, absolutely drowning in powdered sugar. The floor of the cafe is evidence of the profusion of icing sugar….it is everywhere! Trying to eat a beignet without wearing a film of powdered sugar is a challenge…. but one I was willing to take! Time your visit, to avoid very long queues to get in – early morning or late afternoon.
Shopping
As with any city, shopping options are vast and varied. My favourite district to browse was around Decatur Street, which offers a mix of quirky shops, vintage clothing, local music stores and souvenir shops.
I have a thing about collecting playing cards as souvenirs from places I have been. Imagine my delight when I discovered a whole shop dedicated to playing cards! The Custom Gambler was a treasure trove of custom-made playing cards and art. I spent way too long browsing in this shop. The owner and artist is lovely, and he even gave me a free print of one of his sketches when I finally made a decision on a purchase….. having just come from Memphis, it had to be a custom-made deck of Elvis cards!
Explore Bourbon Street
The party district of New Orleans is Bourbon Street. As the name would suggest, it is synonymous with bustling bars, pubs and music venues. We walked down Burbon Street during the day, just to experience it and say we did, but Frenchman Street is much more my vibe.
Enjoy a Mississippi River Cruise on a Paddle-wheeler
This was one thing we didn’t get around to doing. Natchez have a fleet of historic steamboats and do jazz cruises, Christmas cruises and New Years Eve cruises. We watched the historic Paddle-wheeler boats cruising down the river and it looked like it would be a fun way to view the city of New Orleans from a unique perspective. Next time!
New Years Eve Activities
Dinner and Fireworks
We booked ahead to get into Saint John for dinner on New Years Eve. There were timed sittings as you would expect on New Year’s Eve, but we didn’t feel rushed and enjoyed a drink at the bar before our sitting. Wearing my new souvenir earrings, we enjoyed a delicious set menu before heading out for some more live music and finally down to the river’s edge, with most of the town’s population, to see in the New Year watching fireworks over the Mississippi.
The Sugar Bowl Parade
Seeing the Sugar Bowl Parade was an experience like nothing I had seen before. I’ll give it to the American’s, they do know how to put on a parade!
We headed back to our favourite little restaurant, Frank’s, and up to the balcony for prime viewing position. The place soon filled up and we ended up sharing our table with another couple from out of town. The atmosphere was lively but friendly. We watched as floats, huge marching bands, dancers and football mascots (including a live longhorn bull!) marched through the heart of downtown New Orleans. The competition was between the Washington Huskies and the Texas Longhorns, and the town was awash in a sea of purple and orange. I even managed to nab a strand of beads that were tossed from one of the many floats into the crowd as a little souvenir. So much fun!
