Carnarvon Gorge really is a beautiful corner of the Earth, and I encourage you to get out and see it. However, it is rather remote and so planning is essential. Here are some things you should know before you go.
How to Get to Carnarvon Gorge
Carnarvon Gorge is about an 8 hour drive North-West of Brisbane, in the central Queensland Highlands. We broke up the drive with a lunch stop in Roma along the way. The road from Brisbane is fully sealed so accessible for all vehicles.
If travelling from the North of Queensland, Carnarvon Gorge National Park is about 450km South-West of Rockhampton.
Be aware, the further inland you travel, the more wildlife you will encounter. Best to time your trip so that you are not driving at dusk or dawn to avoid collisions with kangaroos that are actively feeding during those times. You will also be passing through cattle country as you near the National Park, so watch for cattle on the road.
Where to Stay in Carnarvon Gorge
There are several accommodation options available inside and outside the National Park. We stayed at the Big 4 Breeze Holiday Park in one of their brand-new deluxe Villas. These self-contained units only opened this year, and I loved them! I work with children and unfortunately can only vacation during school holidays when most campgrounds are overrun with kids. These villas are set aside at one end of the holiday Park, away from the maddening crowds. 😁
Each villa has its own deck and fire pit, they are airconditioned and the deluxe ones sleep 4, so you can split the cost if travelling with friends. They cost between $400 and $500 a night, depending on type and season.
Let’s face it ladies, after driving for 8 hours, who wants to be bothered setting up a tent and making beds?!? What a fantastic getaway for a girl’s trip – pull up, drop the suitcase and open the wine! My kind of camping!
My friends also stayed in the Breeze tented style accommodation, which is obviously more budget friendly, but be aware it can get quite cold at night, and they are not insulated and do not have air conditioning. They also reported that in busy peak periods there can be a line to use the shared shower/bathroom facilities.
Of course, there are caravan and camping sites available also, as well as other budget-friendly cabin options, but make sure to book well ahead!
We also passed more up-market luxury accommodation down the road from Big 4 Breeze, if you are after a more luxurious safari-type option, called Carnarvon Gorge Wilderness Lodge, but it closes at the end of October over summer and re-opens in March 2025.
Outside the National Park there are a number of accommodation options that you can easily search for to suit your needs.
When to go to Carnarvon Gorge
The answer to this question varies according to the weather. The National Park is open all year round, but the best time to visit is in the cooler months between April and September. The gorge can get very hot in the warmer months and as the main activity to do in the Gorge is walking, the cooler the better!
It is important to know that the Carnarvon Creek rises rapidly after heavy rainfall, cutting off access roads. Make sure you check weather conditions before you go and check this government website for any road closures.
I know friends that have been left stuck roadside for many hours, waiting for the water to recede, to be able to enter or exit the National Park. They tell funny stories of the road being littered with snakes and frogs all trying to escape the rising water – I don’t think I would find that situation funny at all!
Things to do in Carnarvon Gorge
The main activity of choice in the National Park is walking and hiking and you should definitely include several walks on your trip. The scenery is stunning! If you time your walk right, you will have the track all to yourself as we did. Head off early, we were on the track by 6.30am and only encountered families on our return walk.
Here is a map overview of the walking tracks in the Carnarvon Gorge National Park for your reference. I will go into more detail about different sections that we walked.
A short drive from our accommodation took us to the visitor centre, where the main walk begins.
Long Walks in Carnarvon Gorge
There are several long walks you can do including the Boolimba Bluff Walk, which I am told is the spot to watch the sunrise from. You can also walk to the end of the 10km main walking track, which will take you most of the day there and back.
We chose to do the Main Walk as far as the Art Gallery, taking in all the side gorges along the way.
The walk begins with a Carnarvon Creek crossing, there are several crossings along the main walk. Another advantage of setting off early is that very few people have done the creek crossings before you, so the stepping-stones are mostly dry. As the day progresses and foot traffic increases, the stones can get muddy and slippery.
The Moss Garden
If you are referring to the map above, you will see that the first side gorge on the left takes you to the Moss Garden. You can choose to break up your walk by choosing just one of these destinations each day or smash them all out in one day! The Moss Garden return walk is 7km.
This little oasis is a lush green sanctuary full of moss and ferns fed by a constant stream of dripping water which has soaked through the sandstone cliffs. When the water hits harder rock, it is forced to escape to the surface of the rock, dripping constantly and sustaining the plant life. There is also a small waterfall tumbling into a pool. Stop, sit a while and listen to the sound of the water. It is quite meditative.
The Amphitheatre
The Amphitheatre return walk is 8.6km.
Climb the stairs to ascend the gorge walls. Hidden inside is a 60m deep chamber with towering stone walls and a natural skylight. Sounds echo in the chamber. Sit, reflect and contemplate. We had the whole place to ourselves. I’m not sure how peaceful it would be full of people – I’ll say it again, get there early!
The Art Gallery
This is the last side walk on the left of the main walk, at a distance of 10.8km return.
This place is quite special, a significant Aboriginal site, with over 2000 engravings, ochre stencils and free-hand paintings. Signage along the boardwalk explains the artwork you are looking at. Don’t miss this place, it contains some of the best examples of stencil art in Australia.
After we viewed the Art Gallery, we started our return walk stopping at Wards Canyon our last side gorge walk for the day.
Wards Canyon
Wards canyon is a 9.2km round walk. A few stairs to climb on this one but not overly difficult and worth the effort. A cool breeze blows as you enter the canyon, passing a small waterfall on your way. Inside the canyon you will find examples of the world’s largest fern, the King Fern, as well as trickling streams flowing over red rust-coloured rocks.
We were getting hot and tired by this stage of our walk, so this stop was a cool respite for us weary walkers. From Wards Canyon we walked straight back to the visitor centre. With aching feet and a glowing sense of accomplishment we made it back to camp for lunch and a wee nanny nap!
There are even longer walks, with camp sites for hikers along the way, as you will see on the map. We were more than happy with the walk we completed that day and felt that was enough for us.
Shorter Walks in Carnarvon Gorge
There are also several shorter walks to enjoy if you are not up to one of the longer walks. We opted for the Mickey Creek Gorge Walk, which you will see on the map. It is 3 km return walk from the carpark. Once you hit the Mickey Creek Gorge sign at the end of the walk, you have a choice of Gorges to visit. We walked there at the end of our epic 15 km main gorge walk, so opted to view just one, the Warrumbah Creek Gorge, before heading back to the car.
The Warrumbah Creek Gorge is easy walking until you venture off the main path. I have to say this was the most challenging gorge to get to with rock hopping and a bit of rock climbing involved, and no clear path to follow. My friend had been there before so lead the way.
The gorge is quite spectacular once you get there but be wary of being caught in there if it starts to rain, the gorge will fill with water, and it was hard enough to negotiate when dry!
Native animal spotting in Carnarvon Gorge
I was excited to discover that the Breeze Holiday Park where we were staying had platypus viewing areas. Platypuses are notoriously shy, and you must be very patient, quiet and lucky to see one. Whilst there were plenty of wallabies, kangaroos, turtles and even a massive carpet python to see, it was the platypus I really wanted to spot.
Twice we headed down to the viewing area at dusk and waited patiently but saw nothing. On our last morning, I got up early and with coffee in hand, ventured to the viewing area again. This time, I was in luck!
Apparently, echidnas are often seen in the holiday park as well, but we didn’t see any while we were there.
Swimming in Carnarvon Gorge
If you refer to the map again, you will see just across the road from the Mickeys Creek Walk is the Rock Pool. This is a swimming hole, actually, it is the only place in Carnarvon Gorge where you can go swimming. However, when we went there, the water level was quite low, and it didn’t look like a very inviting place to swim. We waded in the Carnarvon creek instead, soothing our aching feet in the chilly water after our long walk.
Relax in the natural beauty of Carnarvon Gorge
While Carnarvon Gorge screams to be explored, it is also a place to rest and relax. I always pack a good book with me when I go away anywhere, and you will find plenty of shady inviting spots to set up a picnic blanket at the visitor centre. Pack a picnic or fire up a BBQ if you get a bit peckish.
If I had to sum up the Carnarvon Gorge in a few words, I would say that it has a Jurassic feel to it. Wander along the main walking path and you soon feel dwarfed by the towering palms and I could almost sense the ghosts of prehistoric creatures that surely once roamed here.
What to pack when you visit Carnarvon Gorge
Carnarvon Gorge is remote, so a good packing list is essential. Here is a list of a few things I recommend adding to your packing list.
- sunblock
- hat
- insect repellant
- water bottle
- good walking/hiking boots
- a walking pole if planning to do the long walks
- strapping tape in case of blisters
- lightweight shirt for sun protection
- torch/headlamp if planning on walking to the bluff to watch the sunrise
- moisturizer
- lip balm
Of course, you will have your usual items you take camping etc on your list, but these things should be added if you plan on walking.
Carnarvon Gorge was the first stop on a week-long Outback adventure. Our next stop was a first for me, gem hunting in the central Queensland gem fields. I never knew fossicking could be so much fun; I may have even caught gem fever! If interested in reading more about my gem hunting adventures, I urge you to subscribe, and you’ll be notified as soon as the post is written and published.
