There’s no getting around it, Santorini would have to be one of the most expensive Greek Islands to holiday on. Having said that though, if it is your first time to the Greek Islands, Santorini is a place that you just have to see. Located in the Cyclades group of Islands, it is the place you picture in your mind when you think of the Greek Islands.
How to get to Santorini
Santorini has an airport so of course an option is to fly there. Both times we stayed in Santorini we flew Aegean Air from Athens. If traveling between islands, it is important to note that most flights go via Athens, so flying directly from one island to another is quite difficult. The ferry is a more direct transport option, although depending on travel distance, can be time consuming. This is the reason a lot of people choose to island hop within the one cluster of Greek Islands.
The map below shows the different Greek Island groups, illustrating the distances between them all.
On our first visit, this is exactly why we stayed within the Cyclades Island group. We caught the ferry from Santorini to Paros and then onto Mykonos.
On our second visit, we wanted to experience one of the other island clusters and so flew into Naxos, then ferried to Santorini, from Santorini we flew to Corfu, in the Ionian Islands. As mentioned earlier, we had to fly via Athens to get there, which was a bit of a pain, but worth it. Don’t discount Athens as just a stop-over either. It has a lot to offer as a holiday destination, so consider adding it to your Greece itinerary.
When to go to Santorini
Both times I visited Santorini, it was in September. Shoulder seasons are a great time of year to visit the Greek Islands, especially the popular ones, because the weather is still warm enough to swim but you don’t have to battle the huge crowds at the top tourist spots. Be aware though, at the end of September, the islands start shutting down for the off-season. This means bus services around the islands are greatly reduced, a lot of restaurants shut down and of course the weather cools down.
Where to stay in Santorini
The main ferry port, and capital of Santorini, is Thira, also called Fira. It is super busy when the cruise ships come in, especially in high season. It is also the main transport hub, and all buses leave from, and arrive here.
Look out across the caldera and you will see Oia at the far end. Oia is the honeymooner’s delight. This is where you will find the very expensive hotels and hordes of tourists vying for the perfect Instagram photo or prime position to watch the famous Santorini sunset.
Imerovigli
Both Thira and Oia should definitely be explored when in Santorini, but both are very busy. We chose to base ourselves halfway between the two, in Imerovigli, a slightly cheaper option. We stayed at Merovigliosso (try saying that after a wine!) the first time we visited Santorini in 2015.
We loved it and the location so much, that we chose to stay just down the road at Abelonas Retreat on our second visit in 2023. Both rooms had caldera views, and our room at Abelonas was positioned such, that we could enjoy the sunset from our balcony in the evening and then wake up and see the sunrise from the patio on the other side of our room! Santorini is a very windy island, so venturing out to see the sunrise, saw us nearly getting blown away! Breakfast is included in your stay. Do yourself a favour when selecting your menu, and ask the host George, to surprise you. You won’t be disappointed!
Places to see in Santorini
Walk the Caldera
From Imerovigli, it is just a short bus ride into Thira and then onto anywhere else on the Island that you want to go. Even better, though, it is within walking distance along the caldera. The walk is one of the must-do activities in Santorini, the panoramic views and picture-perfect Caldera scenery has to be seen.
Perissa
Once you settle into your digs, and take in the breathtaking views, you’ll be keen to start exploring the island, as we were. After completing the caldera walk as mentioned above, our next destination was Perissa and a lazy couple of hours spent on Black beach. This would have to be my favourite beach on Santorini. The first time I visited, there was a festival going on. We were lucky enough to experience the local music and dancing, as well as cultural festivities.
The beach itself has calm inviting water and the black sand was something I had never seen before. Coming from Australia, we have some pretty wonderful beaches, so to see something a little different was exciting. The black sand does draw and hold the heat from the sun, so the boardwalks snaking between sunbeds and beach umbrellas are a must for summer feet. It can be a little confusing at first, but the sunbeds are divided into sections and each section is looked after by different restaurants and cafes. You pay around 10 Euro a bed to a staff member, and they look after you for the duration of your visit, taking and delivering food and drinks ordered from their menu.
Akrotiri
Another activity recommendation is to visit Akrotiri. Don’t just limit yourself to the archeological site, which is amazing, but take a walk around Akrotiri village as well. Get off the bus at the village and walk up to explore the ruins of the ancient Franciscan monastery. From here you get fantastic views of the surrounding countryside and beaches. If you are feeling energetic it is a short 15-minute walk down the hill from the village to the archeological site…. or you can wait for the next bus.
Known as the Pompeii of Greece, Akrotiri was discovered by accident after a deluge unearthed some ancient pottery. The archeological dig that followed, and that is continuing still, has revealed a city at first devasted by an earthquake and then buried by a volcanic eruption. You can walk around the excavations, marveling at just how advanced this ancient civilization actually was. It was truly amazing to see.
Visit the Coloured Beaches
Our host at our accommodation recommended we head towards the water after visiting the museum and catch a water taxi to some more beaches. You pay a one-off fee and are given a wrist band. The boat visits Red Beach (we were not able to disembark at Red Beach but it is able to be reached by foot, wearing comfortable shoes, from the Akrotiri archeological site), then White Beach and Black Beach (a different one to Perissa) in succession, and you can hop off spend some time at the beaches, which are small but only accessible by boat, and then hop back on the boat when you are ready to move on.
Oia
No doubt about it, Oia is stunning to look at. You have to see it if you are visiting Santorini. Having said that though, it is incredibly crowded, expensive and full of Instagram influencers. Those classic photos you see of the blue dome roofs and Santorini bells are the result of a lot of patience and waiting in long lines. Some locations are only accessible if you have pre-booked with a professional photographer. People do…. a lot of people do! See Oia, definitely, but you will enjoy your time in Santorini so much more if you venture a little further afield.
Things to do in Santorini
Eat Fresh Seafood by the Sea
This was one of our favourite days, after visiting the coloured beaches, we followed our host’s suggestion number 2, which was to dine in a third-generation fishing family’s seafood restaurant located in Akrotiri. The Dolphins restaurant did not disappoint. The seafood was so fresh that when you order your fish, you walk into the restaurant and the wait staff open the fridge drawer and you choose from the fish that were caught that morning. A young local boy was quite concerned that we were going to select the tiny wee fish he had caught earlier and placed in the drawer for safe keeping. Our table was right on the water, the decor was quirky, the local wine was delicious, and the food was amazing! Highly recommend.
Open Air Cinema
Whilst on our caldera walk on our first day, we saw an advertisement for the showing of Mamma Mia in an outdoor cinema. When in Rome…. so we booked a table and rocked up expecting a normal outdoor movie experience. It was actually so much fun and not what we expected at all. You are issued with headphones, so for anyone walking past, it looks and sounds like a silent movie….until the music starts! At first, I was a little self-conscious….was I the only one singing?? I slid the headphones off to check. No… everyone was singing! By the end everyone was out of their seat singing and dancing. What a sight it must have been to passersby!
A Greek Wedding Experience
The only activity we had prebooked in Santorini was a Greek Wedding theatrical experience. This was a bit of fun where you get to feel like you are attending your Greek cousin’s wedding. Lots of singing, dancing and plate smashing. It was a little light on the eating though, so maybe have a bite to eat before you attend this one.
Catch the Funicular
There is a funicular you can catch from Thira down to the fishing port below. Some choose to walk down and others choose to ride the famous Santorini donkeys down or up. I actually felt a little sorry for the donkeys standing around in the scorching heat waiting for someone to pay for a ride. They were tethered to the side of the path, heads hanging down and trying to maneuver into the little bit of shade on offer. I’m sure they are very well treated, and at the end of the day, it is quite the sight to see them being led through the streets of Thira to their home for the night, but they just looked exhausted.
Dine at a Traditional Greek Restaurant
Our host was spot on again when he recommended we dine at Kokkalo restaurant, for authentic Santorini Greek cuisine. It is one of the few restaurants that stay open in the off season for the locals to dine at. The food and service were fantastic, and it was within walking distance from where we were staying. Highly recommend.
Catching the Ferry
I want to finish with a little conversation around the ferries. Catching the ferries between islands is an economical and efficient way to travel especially when travelling within the one cluster of island groups for example the Cyclades Islands. A word of warning though, especially when catching the ferry in high season…. it is crazy! The services are on a strict timetable so there is no mucking about when boarding or disembarking. Guests are herded on and off to the sounds of blasting whistles …. and when I say herding, I mean herding! Never before have a sympathized with cattle more than when I was getting off that ferry. Once you are on dry land the chaos doesn’t end. There are people everywhere! Taxis, drivers, hotel personnel holding up signs….so many signs! A busy Tokyo pedestrian crossing comes to mind…. but it seems to be organized chaos and in a fairly timely manner you are delivered to your accommodation. It is certainly an experience!
