Cinque Terre literally translates to 5 lands, and refers to the 5 gorgeous fishing villages on the northwestern Italian coastline. The five villages of Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore are linked by a scenic hiking trail and can be reached by train or ferry.
I have visited this area of the northern Italian coastline twice – the first time was just on a day trip and more recently, staying in the area for 3 nights. We researched which village would be best to base ourselves in while we were there. In the end we decided our best option was to NOT stay in one of the 5 Cinque Terre villages, but in the next village along the coast, the pretty port town of Portovenere. My research told me that although it was a little more difficult to get to, Portovenere is less touristy and crowded, as well as a cheaper option, than staying in one of the Cinque Terre villages.
How to get to Portovenere
We caught the train from Milan to La Spezia and the plan was to get a taxi from the train station to our accommodation. However, everyone getting off the train had the same idea, and there seemed to be only 1 taxi operating in the whole town! The decision was made to walk to a nearby bus stop and catch the bus to Portovenere.
Well, it wasn’t exactly nearby, and I was wearing the completely wrong shoes – love my wedges but clearly not designed for long walks. Hot and cranky, we finally arrived at the bus stop and with relief, lugged our suitcases onto the arriving bus. I made my way to the front of the bus to purchase our bus tickets, only to be told that the tickets needed to be purchased BEFORE you get on the bus, and we would have to get off or face a very expensive fine. The bus had travelled a few stops by this stage, so off we got, in the middle of nowhere, and started walking up a hill with suitcases and blistering feet in search of a tobacconist shop that sold bus tickets. Google maps told us one was not too far away …. it was closed. Can you feel my simmering rage?
What to do? Continue walking in search of another ticket seller that may or may not be closed, OR get on next bus and pretend to validate fake bus ticket at the back of the bus and hope no-one notices? Yes, we chose the latter, and hid behind a large group of teenagers heading to the beach for the day. Our stop was the end of the line, and I started to panic when I saw the ticket officer there checking tickets as people got off the bus.
Luckily, he went straight for the group of teenagers, and we sped off in the opposite direction as fast as my blistered feet could carry me!
Was Portovenere worth the hassle of getting there? Absolutely! Our gorgeous room at La Casetta sul Mare, overlooked the waterfront, lined with buildings twinkling in fairy lights. With the port at our doorstep, our most anticipated private boat tour the next day, was only a few steps away!
We spent our first night in Portovenere exploring the narrow medieval streets and walking up to the castle and church above the town to see Byron’s grotto, the Gulf of Poets and to watch the sunset. An early night was needed for an early start the next day.
Sailing Day
I researched lots of private boat charters and decided on The Blue Boat Company.
The actual boat we chose for our day on the water was the black boat. It was the most expensive day of our entire trip but by far the most memorable. They fed us, hydrated us, and took us to secret coves to swim in the turquoise water. We stopped at 4 of the 5 Cinque Terre villages as well as the stunning Lerici, which I think was my favourite stop – hands down best gelati I have ever tasted. We ended the day raising a toast to magical days such as these and watching the stunning sunset from the Gulf of Poets.
When it came to settle up at the end of the day …. slight problem, my card wouldn’t work. Embarrassing! My credit card had been hacked recently and so for extra security I had placed a 5-digit PIN on my new card. Note – most overseas countries only accept 4-digit PINS. All’s well that ends well – card sorted and had an all-round top day.
I think that the best way to see the 5 villages is by boat. On my first visit to Cinque Terre, we caught the train back to Le Spezia at the end of a very long, hot day…..along with hundreds and hundreds of other tourists. It was crowded and not much fun. So, if you are travelling to Cinque Terre, consider staying just outside the villages and visiting them by boat. It really was a magical day.
From Portovenere we headed to Lake Como. I don’t have to tell you that we pre-booked our taxi to the train station the day we got off that bus!
