Traveling to Turkmenistan, you will get a glimpse into one of the world’s most intriguing and least-visited destinations.
Turkmenistan’s story stretches back thousands of years, from its days as a key crossroads on the Silk Road, to its time under Persian Parthian and later Russian rule. It became part of the Soviet Union in the 20th century before declaring independence on October 27, 1991.
Discover the best places to visit in Turkmenistan. From the glittering white-marble capital of Ashgabat to the fiery Davarza Gas Crater (the famous Door to Hell), Turkmenistan offers a journey unlike any other in Central Asia. Explore the ancient fortress of Nisa and Kunye-Urgench’s soaring minarets.
Turkmenistan is not the easiest country to gain entry into. Tourists need a Visa to enter, which I explain in more detail later in this post. However, I wanted to mention at the outset, that you can only enter Turkmenistan as a tourist as part of an organized tour group. As such, much of your itinerary will be predetermined, if you go with a big international tour company like I did.
There is the option to enter the country using a local tour operator, which may offer more flexibility in your itinerary. We toured with Inspiring Vacations, and I highly recommend them as an international tour operator. Here are some private tour options, if you would rather keep your tour group smaller, private and a little more flexible.
Whether in a big or small private tour group, here are my top 10 things to see and do when traveling to Turkmenistan. These should definitely be on your itinerary.
Traveling to Turkmenistan: Top 10 Things to See & Do
1. Ashgabat: The White Marble City
My initial thoughts on seeing the capital city of Turkmenistan, Ashgabat, was ‘Wow! I’ve never seen anything like it before!’ Everywhere I looked – every building, monument, car and bus was white!
After a massive earthquake destroyed the city in 1948, every building in the reconstruction was covered in a white Italian marble facade (white is believed to be good luck and it reflects the heat). You know when you visit Santorini and you have to wear sunglasses for the glare from the all the white-washed buildings? Well, Ashgabat is that on steroids!
The whole city is white and gold with a splash of green.
At night the city transforms into ‘Ashvegas’ lit up with neon lights. The city is clean, I mean super clean! There is no litter anywhere. 5000 people are employed just to clean the streets and parks!
Government buildings are designed to represent the service they provide. For example, the dental school and hospital is shaped like a giant molar; the cosmetic procedures building is shaped like a giant mirror; the gas company building is shaped like a giant lighter, the medical institute is shaped like a giant syringe and the airport is shaped like a giant white marble bird in flight!
Stay in the capital city for a few nights just to have a good look around. It is mind boggling!
2. Halk Hakydasy Memorial Complex
The Halk Hakydasy Memorial complex in Ashgabat was opened in 2014.
The complex tells the story of national resilience and remembrance. It commemorates those people lost in WWII with an eternal flame inside 5 large pillars, which represent the 5 regions of Turkmenistan. 3 military men guard the flame 24 hours a day – no photos allowed of them, but 2 men stand in little guard houses in the blazing afternoon sun doing 1–2-hour shifts while the third soldier gives them sips of water etc. as they cannot leave their post.
Huge reliefs, depicting scenes from different conflicts, surround the complex. A massive arch stretches above a mother grieving for her lost sons and husband, killed during war.
The bull statue commemorates the 70% of the population that lost their lives in the massive 1948 earthquake. The bull shook his head, causing the Earth, balanced between his horns, to shake.
A solemn place yet impressive in its’ scale and design.
3. Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque and Mausoleum
The Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque is one of Central Asia’s largest mosques located just outside Ashgabat in the village of Gypjak (which is the birthplace of the former president Turkmenbashi).
The mosque is built out of…you guessed it…. gleaming white marble and crowned with an enormous golden dome and four towering minarets.
Inside, the mosque is decorated lavishly with gold, marble and intricate mosaics.
Beside the mosque is the Mausoleum of Turkmenbashi, where the former leader and his family are buried. Several members of the late president’s family were killed in the Earthquake of 1948 and a sculpture in the mausoleum is dedicated to these victims.
4. Independence Park and Monument
Independence Park in Ashgabat is one of Turkmenistan’s most impressive landmarks, which celebrates the nation’s independence from the Soviet Union in 1991.
The park is dominated by the Independence Monument – a towering white marble column topped with a golden spire and crowned with a crescent moon and five stars symbolizing the countries 5 provinces. The base of the monument represents a yurt, and the centre spire is 91 metres tall representing the year of independence.
Around the monument are grand statues of Turkmen heroes and figures that played significant roles in the country’s road to independence.
The park has wide boulevards, beautiful landscape gardens, and wonderful views of the Ashgabat skyline.
It was at Independence Park that the military were practicing for some sort of upcoming parade or presentation. Our tour guide was unaware of their presence and quickly shut down any chance of getting a photograph as soon as he realized. Photographing the military is a big No No in Turkmenistan.
5. The National Museum of Turkmenistan
Anyone interested in Turkmenistan’s rich history and culture needs to include the National Museum of Turkmenistan in their itinerary. The building itself is impressive, built out of white marble topped with a golden dome.
Inside the museum you can view extensive collections spanning ancient civilizations, Silk Road heritage and modern Turkmen identity. There are artifacts from the ancient sites of Merv and Nisa, such as coins, jewelry and pottery.
No photography allowed in the exhibit areas, just in the foyer.
In front of the museum is the world’s tallest freestanding flagpole.
6. The Sunday Bazaar
The Altyn Asyr Bazaar, or the Sunday Bazaar, is held on the outskirts of Ashgabat. What began as a desert marketplace where nomadic traders gathered to exchange livestock and household goods, has grown into a vast, bustling bazaar that sells an incredible variety of goods – from handwoven carpets, baby cradles, clothing, electronics and livestock – including camels!
This place is huge! We could have spent a lot longer exploring the bazaar, but it was very hot and not much shade on offer as you walk around.
7. The Ertugrul Gazi Mosque
Inspired by Türkiye’s Blue Mosque, the Ertugrul Gazi Mosque has 4 minarets and a grand central dome. It is decorated with a white marble facade, intricate Islamic calligraphy and colourful stained glass windows.
Not much time is needed at this site, but it is definitely worth a quick visit.
8. See the Magnificent Turkmen Horses
Turkmen horses, the Akhal-Teke, are world famous for their grace, speed and their shimmering coats that appear golden or even metallic in the sunlight. They are often called the ‘golden horses of the desert’ and I can see why. We visited an Akhal Teke horse stable to see this ancient horse breed.
They really are a stunning looking horse. We had the opportunity to watch a display of their intelligence and ability. Some of our group even took the opportunity to ride one. Not me, I admit I have a little bit of a fear of horses, ever since primary school. I witnessed my best friend at the time get bitten on the boob by her own horse! I have kept my distance from them ever since.
It was at these stables that, yet another toilet incident occurred. We arrived after quite a long bus ride, so I joined the end of the queue to use the bathroom. Lucky last, I entered the cubicle and locked the door. However, when I went to exit, the lock would not unlock! I tried everything, I called out for help and began knocking. Being the last one in, everyone else had disappeared and no-one could hear me.
I began laughing remembering the time Milana and I were accidentally locked in a toilet block in Naxos….why do these things keep happening to me!? After what seemed like ages, but was probably only 10 minutes, the door was opened by a young stable hand who must have heard me calling out from the neighbouring barn. Embarrassed but relieved, I joined the others.
9. Parthian Fortress of Nisa – A UNESCO World Heritage Site
Located near Ashgabat is one of Turkmenistan’s most important archaeological sites, the Parthian Fortress of Nisa. Founded around the 3rd century BC, and now a UNESCO world heritage site, it was once a royal stronghold of the Parthian Empire.
As you walk around the site exploring the mudbrick walls, towers and palace ruins, you can actually see and touch the ancient walls and excavated pieces of pottery left behind from excavations. Each piece has markings written on it from the archaeologists. It is amazing to hold fragments of history thousands of years old.
10. Davarza Gas Crater
Visiting the Davarza Gas Crater, in the Karakum Desert, was a highlight of my time in Turkmenistan for a number of reasons.
The drive out to the crater was an adventure in itself! We had to transfer to 4WD vehicles because of the condition of the roads. Due to the extremes in weather conditions the roads don’t last longer than 10 years in the desert, requiring a slow and careful driver to negotiate all the potholes and undulations in the bitumen (See video below).
Before reaching the gas crater, you get to view several other craters all formed by soviet geologists drilling for gas. The first is the water crater, and the second contains mud and Sulphur. They are both massive and I was a bit nervous getting too close to the edge. We then arrived at the gas crater just on sunset.
The gas crater was formed in 1971 when the geologists accidentally collapsed a natural gas chamber while drilling. They deliberately set the crater alight to prevent the spread of methane gas, believing it would burn itself out in a few weeks. It has been burning continuously ever since, for over 50 years!
To really appreciate the gas crater, it should be viewed at night. Sitting around the rim of the crater is like sitting around a giant campfire. You can feel the heat on your face. We happened to be there on the night of a lunar eclipse and a full, blood-red moon.
Our group took some camp chairs and a bottle of something to share, and we all toasted to the lunar eclipse. It was a night I will remember fondly for a long time.
The final reason I loved my visit to the Davarza gas crater is the accommodation – yurts! We did get to stay in yurts again later in the trip and those yurts seemed more authentic than the yurts at the gas crater. These yurts seemed a little bit commercially produced and not very traditional, compared to the yurts in Kyrgyzstan.
I may be in the minority, as most of the group found the beds in the yurts quite hard and uncomfortable. I have to agree they were hard, but I slept ok on them and staying in a yurt is such a unique experience….. especially beside a burning gas crater, under a blood-red moon, watching a lunar eclipse!
11. Kunye-Urgench UNESCO World Heritage Site
Our last stop in Turkmenistan was to the UNESCO world heritage site of the Kunye-Urgench complex. This site was once the capital of the Khotezm region. In the early 11th-12th century it was the most powerful fortress in central Asia and an important trade centre, before being destroyed by the Mongols.
We saw the double domed Khodjaly (Khorezm) Mosque across the road from the ancient complex, which was a tribute of love much like the Taj Mahal.
The interior of the mosque is full of romantic symbolism. 4 doors represent the 4 seasons, and 12 open windows represent 12 months of the year, and the passage of time. The 12 closed windows represent the hidden spiritual world. Combined, the Khodjaly Mosque was an expression of love through space and time.
Enter the Kunye-Urgench site to see the 60meter tall, Kutleg-Timur minaret, which leans slightly towards Mecca. Once functioning as a sort of lighthouse to guide pilgrims and caravans.
There are also several mausoleums on the site honouring a princess, a teacher and a scholar.
12. The Ancient City of Merv
One place our tour did not go to that looks amazing is the UNESCO world heritage ancient city of Merv. It lays in the ancient city of Mary and is the oldest and best-preserved of the oasis-cities along the Silk Route in Central Asia. Inspiring Vacations now offers a tour that includes the city of Mary, but it didn’t at the time of our booking.
I would have loved to have visited Merv…. oh well, an excuse to return one day perhaps?
Traveling to Turkmenistan: Top Things to Know
If you are planning on traveling to Turkmenistan, you no doubt have many questions. I had them too! Turkmenistan is one of the most restrictive countries in Central Asia when it comes to tourism. Below is a list of things you need to know if you are planning a trip to Turkmenistan.
Getting a Tourist Visa
To get a tourist visa, you must be part of an officially registered guided tour (this can be a group or even a private guided tour arranged through a local agency). You are not allowed to travel independently in Turkmenistan.
We traveled with Inspiring Vacations (IV) on a 22 day 5 Stans Unveiled tour. IV organized the whole visa application process. I have written more detail about the visa application process and the process involved in entering the country in my post on Everything You Need to Know Before You go to The Stans.
I should mention it is possible to get a Transit Visa (which is the only way for a tourist to enter Turkmenistan without joining a guided tour). It is usually valid for 3-7 days and allows you to travel between 2 neighbouring countries. However, restrictions apply on where you can travel, and approval rates are unpredictable.
As mentioned in my introduction, if you wish to travel to the other Stans independently, then perhaps you can add Turkmenistan to the end or the beginning or your trip and go with a locally operated guided tour group. It is important to note that tourists are only permitted to stay in the country one extra day either side of the beginning and end of your guided tour. If interested, here are some private tour options.
Personally, I found it a relief to let IV take care of all the Visa processing.
Cash or Card?
You will find that your travel money card or your credit card will work in most cities in the other Stans….but not in Turkmenistan!
Cash is king in Turkmenistan. You will need $US cash to enter Turkmenistan – The visa and covid test costs around $130USD cash -the amount varies for some reason.
Your tour guide will then be able to exchange $USD for local currency, the Turkmenistan Manat (TMT). Your cards will not work in Turkmenistan. A lot of hotels and tour operators accept $USD or Euro as well as the local currency. Our tour guide explained to us that there is the official exchange rate and there is the business exchange rate, which is a LOT better than the official one. By exchanging currency with him, he was able to give us the much better business exchange rate.
Interesting to note that the Manat is divided into 100 Tenge, but the coins are rarely used. We did a little shopping in a local supermarket and instead of giving us change in coins, we were given something small, an item from the counter to an equivalent value. I couldn’t work it out at the time, because the shop assistants do not have any English to be able to explain, but it was in lieu of change.
For budgeting purposes, everything is quite cheap. In the 3 days spent in Turkmenistan, not counting the $130US for the entry visa and ‘Covid test’, I spent a total of $70US.
ESim or WiFi?
It doesn’t matter, neither of them work in Turkmenistan! 😂We were advised to let our loved ones know that we will be entering a kind of black hole and that ‘we will see them on the other side!’ I think that is good advice. It’s a good excuse to switch off for a few days.
The Sport Hotel did have WiFi, but nobody seemed to be able to access the internet with it. Having said that, I managed to get one Facebook post published on our first night in Ashgabat. I have no idea how that happened, it was a one of and no-one else in our tour group had any luck with the internet. 🤷♀️
I found the best way to communicate with home was through WhatsApp. For some reason, messages sent easily within the App but images were difficult to send.
Photography Restrictions
This subject was important to me as I take A LOT of photos on my travels.
In Turkmenistan some photography restrictions are in place around government buildings and government or, as mentioned earlier, military personnel. Your tour guide will tell you what you are not allowed to photograph. Ignoring their advice may see you relieved of your device or camera – so make sure to comply.
Turkmenistan is quickly realizing the possibilities of the tourist dollar. You will find some of the big tourist sites will allow photography – if you pay! I am always one of the people willing to pay 😁For around $5US you are issued a slip of paper giving you permission to photograph. The beauty of a tour group, with a WhatsApp chat group, is that the 1 or 2 people that do pay will be able to share the images with the rest of the group.
Where to Stay in Turkmenistan
At our hotel in Ashgabat, we met and talked to many other people from a variety of other tour groups. It seems most of the tour groups follow a very similar itinerary and stay in the same hotels and yurts. In Ashgabat, we stayed in the very modern and stylish Sport Hotel.
Our rooms were spacious, and the beds were comfortable. We loved the rooftop restaurant with terrace for dining alfresco and watching the sunset.
We only stayed in Turkmenistan for 3 nights, the first 2 were spent in the Sport hotel. For our last night, we stayed in the yurt camp beside the Davarza Gas Crater. Can you really say you have traveled to Central Asia if you haven’t stayed in a yurt?!
It was around about this time – 3 days into the tour – that people in our tour group started having tummy troubles
Tummy Troubles
I do go into a lot more detail about the widespread occurrence of diarrhea within our tour group, in my other post about things to know when traveling to the Stans. From all reports, it is common among tourists, so please pack the Imodium and be prepared!
Some people in our group had cramping along with the squirts. Others, like me, just had the runs. So read my other post, pack your medicine kit appropriately and try not to let it spoil what is otherwise, an amazing trip, jam packed full of history and fascinating things to see and do.
What to Pack when traveling to Turkmenistan
I don’t think anyone would be traveling to Turkmenistan in the middle of winter. The temperature in the Karakum desert can drop to minus 40 degrees! We traveled at the beginning of September, and it was HOT! Mid 30’s, but a dry heat.
Therefore, pack clothes that will keep you cool, but make them conservative. Ladies, you will need a head scarf to visit the mosques, so include one of those. Comfortable shoes for walking, obviously, as well as the usual items. The power points take a Type C and F power adapter in all of the Stans.
Read my other post on the Stans, about what to pack in the medical kit etc.
What Lays Beneath?
It’s hard to describe how I feel about Turkmenistan. Someone in our tour group described the country, specifically the capital Ashgabat, as having a Stepford Wives vibe….all shiny and perfect on the outside but a little too perfect?
I can’t help but wonder how much money was invested in constructing the magnificent marble buildings, and whether it was at the expense of other socio-economic needs.
The people we met were very friendly and seem to welcome us tourists warmly into their country. However, I get the feeling from the complicated entry process that they are not too keen to see dramatic increases in numbers of tourists and therefore are not actively encouraging tourism, unlike some of their Central Asian neighbours.
Turkmenistan is one of the least visited countries in the world. It is only just starting to open up to tourists, so now is the perfect time to travel there while it is still genuine and authentic and not overrun with tourists. If you are traveling to Central Asia, don’t skip this ‘Stan’. A little extra planning is needed compared to the other Stans, but it is worth it.
Deb Morrow is a wife and mum of two in her 50’s, who works in education. She has a passion for travel and through sharing her travel experiences, tips and recommendations, wants to encourage other women her age to start making time for themselves, grab their besties, and go see the world!
