Located near the Turkmenistan border in Western Uzbekistan, Khiva is a major stop on the classic Silk Road Trail. The city is quite compact, so with planning, seeing the best of Khiva is achievable in just one day.
Khiva was our first stop in Uzbekistan as part of our 22-day, 5 Stans tour with Inspiring Vacations. We had just crossed the Turkmenistan border into Uzbekistan, the country we were to spend the most time in. I have so much content on Uzbekistan that I have decided to divide it into 3 separate posts. to follow this post on Khiva, I have written all about Bukhara and Samarkand with Tashkent still to come So, make sure to subscribe, you don’t want to miss any of it!
Arriving in Khiva, I was excited to finally see the stunning mosques, minarets and madrasas that I had been reading about, with all their exquisite tile designs and mosaics.
Khiva did not disappoint!
Khiva is divided into Ichan Kala, the inner walled city, and Dishan Kala, the modern outer city. Within the 78 metre high, thick walls of Ichan Kala, the most famous sites in Khiva can be found.
Before listing which of these sites should be included in your 1-day Khiva itinerary, first here is my recommendation on where to stay in Khiva.
Where to Stay in Khiva
We were in Uzbekistan as part of a guided tour, so our hotel in Khiva was decided for us. Having stayed here though, I can recommend the Khiva Residence Hotel. The hotel lobby was lavishly decorated; the rooms were comfortable and best of all, there was a pool! Nothing better after a long hot day of sightseeing than to cool down with a swim and a cold beer by the pool.
The old city has 4 city gates, the main gate, the Polvon gate, the Tosh gate and the Bogcha gate. The Khiva Residence Hotel is a short 5-minute walk down the road from the Bogcha gate. Along the way, you will pass several local restaurants that serve great food at a great price.
You will be spoilt for choice with hotel options. You can even stay within the walls of Ichan Kala! If you only have 1 day in Khiva and want to see as much of the old town as you can, then this might be a good option. You also avoid having to pay the entrance fee when you are staying within the old city walls! Here are some other accommodation options both inside and close by Ichan Kala.
Visiting Ichan Kala, Khiva: Tickets and Tips
To enter the walled old city of Ichan Kala in Khiva, travelers need a museum-complex ticket, available at the Main gate or Ata-Darvaza Gate. Being in a guided tour, our entry fee was covered. The pass costs around 100 000 Uzbek som (about $8-9 USD) and includes entry to most of Khiva’s top attractions listed below. A small extra fee is charged to climb the Islam Khoja Minaret and the Watchtower, if you are feeling energetic!
The Best of Khiva: Things to See
We were so fortunate to have our tour guide show us the following highlights of Khiva and tell us all of the fascinating history of the places we were seeing. If you are planning on a self-guided trip to Central Asia, then I highly recommend getting a local guide to show you around Ichan Kala. Here are some options for guided tours of Khiva and Ichan Kala.
1. The Kalta-minor Minaret & Madrasa
Otherwise known as the Blue Tower, Kalta-minor Minaret began construction in 1851 and is located in front of the Muhammad Amin Khan Madrasa. It is truly stunning with vivid turquoise and blue tiles, reaching a height of 26 meters and with a diameter of 14.2 meters. Imagine how impressive it would be if construction was actually finished?
It was intended to be the tallest minaret in Central Asia – over 70 meters high! One of the functions of a minaret is to project the call to prayer far and wide, hence their locations near mosques and madrasas. The Kalta-minor was built so that prayer could heard for miles across the Khorezm oasis.
Construction was abruptly halted in 1855 when the khan who commissioned it, was killed in battle. Viewing the tower any time of day is jaw-dropping, but as the full sun strikes the glazed tiles, shining in all its turquoise glory…. it is just stunning!
Adjoining the Kalta-minor Minaret is the Muhammad Amin Khan Madrasa, the largest madrasa in Khiva. The two-story structure once housed 260 students and features 120 cells (or hujras) arranged around a spacious courtyard. The main entrance or grand portal and the turquoise-tiled domes were the highlights for me.
Today, instead of housing religious students the madrasa is a boutique hotel. Staying inside this historic masterpiece would make a perfect base to explore the other treasures of Ichan Kala.
2. The Kukhna Ark Complex
Kukhna Ark, or Kunya Ark, means ‘Old Ark‘, and is the ancient, fortified residence of Khiva’s khans. It was built in the 12th century and expanded over time. The complex contains over 114 rooms including the khan’s residence, reception halls, mosques, treasury, museums and harem.
2a. The Reception Courtyard and Iwan
This was where the Khan held official audiences and received important guests. The iwan (vaulted space, walled on three sides and open on one) is exquisitely decorated with blue tilework. Three doors lead to the throne room beyond. The largest door on the right was for the exclusive use of the khan.
Don’t forget to look up – the ceiling of the iwan is gorgeous!
2b. The Throne Room
Enter the doorway from the iwan of the reception hall to view the throne room. Decorated in blue and gold, the elevated throne niche once housed a silver covered throne that was taken to St Petersburg when the city was captured by Russian forces.
2c. The Summer Mosque
The gorgeous tilework of the Summer Mosque is not to be missed. It was built in the 19th century for the khan’s use in the warmer months. It features a beautifully decorated iwan supported by carved wooden columns and all those vibrant blue, white and turquoise tiles.
Arabic markings can be seen on the some of the tiles which identifies them as original and functioned to help the architect piece together the intricate mosaic design.
The mirhab (prayer niche) indicates the direction of Mecca and the minbar or pulpit is fixed and decorated in beautiful tiles.
2d. The Mint
Across the courtyard from the Summer Mosque is the Mint. This small museum showcases everything to do with currency in the Khanate era, including minting tools, old coins and my favourite….silk money!
2e. The Zindon (Jail)
Located near the entrance of the Kunya Ark complex is the Zindon, or jail. This was the fortress prison where offenders and political prisoners were held. Inside you can see exhibits displaying the tools of the trade – chains, shackles etc. but my favourite are the pictures illustrating different forms of punishment.
Did you know that the punishment for women gossiping was to be put in a sack with several cats… the sack was then sealed and beaten with a stick! Ouch! Scratchy scratchy!! Perhaps this is where the saying ‘Let the cat out of the bag’ comes from?!
2f. Archaeological Excavations and Discoveries
Within the walls of Kunya Ark archaeologists are uncovering the earliest layers of Khiva’s history. Foundations of buildings dating back to the 10th-12th centuries have been uncovered as well as ancient pottery and tools. If you love history, like me, don’t miss the museums!
3. Tash-Khauli Palace
The Kunya Ark was the old royal residence and the Tash-Khauli Palace was the new! The khan moved there for more comfort and space. This palace is huge and is enclosed by a brick wall with turrets in each corner.
The harem occupies about half of the complex area. Five tall terraces face the yard of the harem – the first one is for the khan and the others for his four wives.
Enter the doorways of the terraces to view the khan’s bedroom and that of his wives.
On the other side of the courtyard were the rooms for the khan’s concubines. So many rooms…. he must have been a very busy man!
4. Islam Hajj Madrasa and Minaret
This madrasa once served as a centre for religious education but is now a museum of applied arts. The adjacent minaret is the tallest in Khiva at 57 metres and is decorated with bands of turquoise, white and blue tiles that shimmer in the sunlight.
Visitors can climb the minaret for panoramic views of Ichan Kala and beyond. We didn’t enter the madrasa/museum or climb the minaret; we just admired it from below and envied the energetic people looking down on us from above.
5. Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum Complex
The body of a great philosopher born in Khiva, is buried here. Legend has it that Pahlavan Mahmud was not only a brilliant philosopher but a great poet and a decent warrior as well. After his death, he was listed as a great saint, and his grave became a shrine.
Upon researching this mausoleum for writing this blog post, I am disappointed we didn’t go inside the mausoleum. It looks stunning, covered in decorative glazed tiles and copper.
6. The Muhammad Amin Inak Madrasa (housing the Museum of Scholars)
Some of the greatest minds of our time came from Central Asia. The Museum of Scholars highlights just how much we owe to the brilliance of past students of the Khorezm Mamun Academy.
We have Muhammad ibn Musa Alkhwarizmi to thank for giving us algebra, the term algebra comes from his own name – thank you for that 🙄. The first globe was invented by the brilliant Abu Rayhon Beruni, as a traveler, I thank you!
The museum is full of ancient texts showing the workings of great thinkers – how the formula for finding the diameter of a circle was realized, the invention of the first astrolabe and many more ….. absolutely fascinating!
7. Museum of Mennonites
The Museum of Mennonites is housed in a small building and tells the story of a small community of German speaking Mennonites who settled near Khiva in the 19th century. They were skilled craftsmen and builders who contributed greatly to the local architecture. The museum highlights the fact that the Silk Roads offered not just an exchange of goods and ideas, but also cultures.
8. Juma Mosque
This mosque has been used for special events since the 11th century. The exterior of the mosque is very simple, but the interior is a multi-column building in the middle of a large street. Some of the ornamental columns are now in the Museum of History of the People of Uzbekistan in Tashkent.
The Mosque has a beautiful minaret attached to it.
9. Caravanserai & Shopping!
I have only scratched the surface of museums and buildings inside Ichan Kala, but with only 24 hours in Khiva, there is only so much you can do. It would not be a girl’s trip if shopping was not squeezed into your must-do itinerary! Luckily, Ichan Kala has plenty of shopping on offer! Our favourite for locally made craft, textiles and clothing was a closed indoor market or caravanserai.
Of course, it would be highly unusual if nothing embarrassing happened to me….and this day was no different. I wanted to buy a pair of long silk pants, so quickly tried them on under my skirt I was wearing at the time. They fit perfectly, yay! It was only when I was taking them off and my skirt was still around my waist, that I heard a giggle and exclamation of ‘Oh, ok!’ behind me. So sorry to the gentleman that got an eyeful of my ample bottom.
In these markets, cash is preferred and haggling is expected! I love my purchases of silk pants, an embroidered top, a watercolour painting of Ichan Kala by a local artist and postcards of course!
There is a place in Ichan Kala that you can purchase postcards with stamps on. Relax in a nearby restaurant with a refreshing drink, write on your postcards, then give them back to the lady you purchased them off and she will post them for you. How cool is that?!
If you are weighed down with all your purchases…. or perhaps exited Ichan Kala from the wrong gate and got a little lost, then I recommend getting one of these buggy rides back to your hotel. So much fun! It was a fixed price, and he went the long way home, so we got a scenic ride through Khiva as a bonus!
10. Folklore Dinner and Show
The fun doesn’t stop when the sun goes down. After arriving back at our hotel and having a late afternoon swim in the pool, we went to a traditional Uzbek restaurant for dinner and show. I thought the show might be a bit cheesy as these sorts of things often are, but I really enjoyed it. The music was wonderful, and the dancing was interactive.
My first impressions of Uzbekistan were all positive. It has a completely different feel to Turkmenistan, much more relaxed. We learnt so much about the history of the Silk Roads, Central Asia and the people that have lived here for centuries. We saw our first double hump camel in Khiva too!
If there was more of this in store for us in Bukhara, our next stop, then I was super excited to see it!
Deb Morrow is a wife and mum of two in her 50’s, who works in education. She has a passion for travel and through sharing her travel experiences, tips and recommendations, wants to encourage other women her age to start making time for themselves, grab their besties, and go see the world!
