This was my first trip to Japan and the one thing I really wanted to experience was staying in a traditional ryokan and having an onsen. I had so many questions! What is the proper onsen etiquette? What if I do it wrong? Do I really have to be nude? Can I wear swimmers? If you are pondering the same questions, then read on!
What is an Onsen?
A few of you may be a little confused about what an onsen actually is. An onsen is a Japanese hot spring bathing facility. The water in an onsen comes from geothermically heated natural springs and contains a variety of minerals which are believed to have many health benefits.
Where can I find an Onsen?
Japan is geologically located along the Pacific Ring of Fire, therefore it contains many active volcanos. This volcanic activity generates geothermal heat that warms the underground water, causing it to rise to the surface and form hot springs.
Typically, onsen towns and resorts are built around a cluster of these hot springs. Some popular onsen towns include: Kusatsu Onsen (Gunma), Beppu Onsen (Oita), Arima Onsen (Hyogo), Hakone Onsen (Kanagawa). I could go on and on. I visited the onsen towns of Takayama and Hirayu in the Gifu prefecture.
Up into the Japanese Alps, in the gorgeous onsen town of Takayama, I chose to stay in a traditional ryokan (a traditional Japanese inn with its own onsen), Oyado Koto No Yume. I loved my stay in this hotel so much, I wrote a whole post about my experience there. Here is the link to read more.
I also went on a little day trip up to the onsen town of Hirayu, a short bus ride from Takayama. I had a magical onsen experience there, in an outdoor, no frills, public onsen. You can read more about my onsen experience in Hirayu in my Takayama post, coming soon.
In short, you can take your pick of onsen, they are everywhere!
Are all Onsen the Same?
No, not all onsen the same. They vary in several different ways.
Public Vs Private Onsen
Private Onsen
A private onsen can be inside a guest’s room at a ryokan, which can include open-air onsen. Be prepared to pay premium but if you want complete privacy and the freedom to bathe with your partner, whenever you want, then this would be a good option.
Ryokans can also offer private onsen facilities outside of the rooms that guests can reserve for private use. Costs vary from free to pay per use (usually within an hour). Each ryokan will have its own unique onsen – open-air, indoor, ocean views etc. Research and find one that appeals to you.
Be aware that some private hot baths are just that, hot baths. They may not be hot spring water, rather hot tap water. To me this is not a traditional onsen and I was determined to experience the real thing!
Public Onsen
Public onsens are usually gender segregated, require nudity, can be indoor or outdoor, feature a large spacious tub or pool and in my opinion, are the authentic onsen experience.
Public onsen usually have showering facilities and dressing rooms and there is certain etiquette that you need to follow as you are sharing the onsen with other patrons. Public onsen can include just for hotel guests (but can’t be reserved, so you may be sharing your bath with other hotel guests) or can be for any members of the public.
As with anything, there are different standards of public onsen. I used the public onsen in my ryokan and it had everything – change room, showers, hair driers and toiletries! I have also used a single-sex public onsen that was outdoor and open to anyone. It was no frills and rustic. No showers, no towels, just a change room and the onsen. Both were fabulous!
Mixed Gender Vs Single Sex Onsen
The main public bathhouses are gender segregated, and full nudity is the norm. However, some mixed-gender public onsen do exist, known as konyoku. They will mostly be found in more remote traditional areas, and swimsuits or other coverings are allowed or required.
Onsen Etiquette
As I mentioned earlier, using a public onsen requires certain etiquette. Here is the basic how-to-onsen guide:
- In the change room – take off all your clothes, including underwear, swimming suit and jewelry (the high mineral content of the water may cause damage) and leave them in a basket or locker. Leave the big towel in the basket with clothes and take the small towel with you to the bathing room.
- Getting ready for the bath – take a shower at the washing space and wash your body and your hair.
- Enjoy the hot spring – take your small towel with you into the bath but don’t soak your towel in the hot spring. Place small towel on your head (helps to keep you cool and keeps it in easy reach). Get out of the bath before you feel too hot.
- To end bathing – dry yourself with the small towel before going into the change room. Dry yourself completely with the big towel.
If you are staying in a ryokan, they will probably give you a guide on how to use their onsen when you check-in, like mine did.
Showering
Why shower when you are about to take a bath? The answer is obvious if you are sharing water with other people, you want them to be clean! It follows then that you shouldn’t take an onsen if you are unwell and for females, using a public onsen during your period is generally discouraged. A private onsen or onsen that allows a swimsuit would be an option to allow tampon use.
What not to do in an Onsen
- Whilst washing yourself is essential before entering an onsen bath, once you are in the bath do not wash yourself.
- Do not submerge your head in an onsen – remember you will also have your little towel on your head.
- Do not put your little towel in the bath water to ensure the continued cleanliness of the water.
- Avoid speaking loudly or shouting. Keep noise to a minimum, remember an onsen is a place of relaxation and tranquility. Don’t be that person.
- Don’t be a space invader. Be mindful of other bathers, don’t splash about and try and keep your distance from other bathers.
- Do not drink alcohol – remember the hot water is dehydrating, combined with the consumption of alcohol, it can have adverse effects on your body. Similarly, it is recommended to limit your time in an onsen to around 30 minutes, to avoid heat stress.
Tattoos
Some onsens have restrictions on entering if you have tattoos. The reason for this restriction dates back to the Edo period. As far back as the 1600’s, tattoos were used as a form of punishment for crimes. Criminals were branded with symbols indicating the nature of their crime. In more modern times, tattoos in Japan are associated with organized crime (Yakuza). So traditionally, people with tattoos had gang or criminality associations and were banned from entering onsen.
This view is slowly changing and some onsen facilities embrace a tattoo-friendly approach, especially in areas of high foreign tourism. Best to check beforehand if you are not sure.
Too shy to Onsen?
This is a big sticking point for me… I am shy! Would I really be able to get my kit off in front of other women and bathe nude with them?
Luckily, I didn’t have to find out because with both of my onsen experiences, I had the whole place to myself! You could ask staff when the quietest times are at the onsen (typically early in the morning or late at night) and try and be as lucky as me.
The alternative is to just take a deep breath, put your big girl pants on (or take them off in this case!😂) be like a local and just get in!
A friend of mine that lived in Japan for 18 years told me a story that made me feel a bit braver and I will share it with you in the hopes it will have the same effect.
My friend speaks fluent Japanese having lived there for so long, but has blonde hair and blue eyes, very obviously not Japanese. On entering an onsen one time, there were several Japanese women already there bathing. Unaware that she could understand everything they were saying, they did not speak in hushed tones.
Do you think they were commenting on her weight, the size of her boobs or her obvious uncertainty about what to do? No…. all they were talking about was the fact that she had pink nipples! 😂
We are all women of all different shapes and sizes. You may be shy for about 30 seconds, but be courageous, step outside your comfort zone and try this unique experience – it is definitely worth it!
Ashi-yu
After reading my post on Onsens and you still can’t possibly imagine using a public onsen, might I suggest visiting an Ashi-yu, which are communal foot baths. Similar to a full onsen but just for your feet! Ashi-yu can be found near hot springs and even at tourist attractions. Some are free to use but the ones at tourist attractions usually charge a fee.
My advice, be brave and go the Full Monty!!
Deb Morrow is a wife and mum of two in her 50’s, who works in education. She has a passion for travel and through sharing her travel experiences, tips and recommendations, wants to encourage other women her age to start making time for themselves, grab their besties, and go see the world!
